Viva L'Italia! Part Three: South Eastern Italy
(Alliste, Racale, Santa Maria Di Leuca, Ugento, Torre Suda, Torre San Giovanni, Gallipole, and Otranto)
Region: Salento (The southern region of Puglia)
Day 16: Alliste
A day of traveling- sadly, we said goodbye to San Vito Chietino, and then took two trains to reach Lecce, a six hour journey, passing the time playing two-handed euchre with cards bought from Venice and gazing out at the lovely Italian countryside, feeling content and reflective, imagining the early childhood my grandparents lived. Racale is a small town located in the heel of Italy, the place my Grandfather was born and raised, before emigrating to Canada. Warm-hearted Nino, the owner of Hotel Al 2000, was waiting for us with open arms when we exited the train station in Lecce and drove us to his hotel, about an hour away, all the while indulging us on personal tales, history of the region, and tourist tips to utilize. Enough good things cannot be said about this establishment and the family that runs it. Nino, with his English speaking accent, put my frantic heart at ease, being instrumental in helping me rent a car, which was something I feared, finding my Grandfather's relations in the area, and planning our daily excursions. Tirelessly, Nino, along with his family and the other staff, made us feel like royal guests, always making sure we had everything we needed, from a large bottle of water in our room, daily, to serving us drinks in the lounge/bar area, and the genuine heartfelt interactions at all times. Looking forward to our vibrant conversations with Nino's son at dinner time was a daily anticipation. We took advantage of the many services and amenities offered, especially the buffet breakfast, which sustained us for the whole day. Tas and I needed to relax and this was the best place to do that. After arriving, we used the available tennis rackets and enjoyed playing in the warm sunshine, before dining on one of many mouth-watering meals that the hotel restaurant provided.
Day 17: Lido Malibu
From the Adriatic to the Ionian Sea. After 16 days of rainy weather shadowing us from place to place, we finally found sunshine. Attentive Nino drove us to the best beach in the area, pointing out landmarks for me along the way so I could drive myself back another day and not get lost! Warm sunshine, soft sand and splashing in the sea were the only things on the agenda today.
An empty beach was our oasis.
After four hours of soulful replenishment, Nino took us "home" to be fed. We spent one of many lazy evenings in the lounge, cozily on the comfy couch, planning out our next day's adventures.
Day 18:
With the gentle, but reassuring push from Nino, I conquered my fear of driving in another country. Nino pre-arranged our reservation and drove us to the car rental shop, waiting patiently until Tas and I were successfully on the road. In good ol' Gilmore Girls' fashion, and with the enthusiastic expectation of escapades, we waved goodbye and set out on our first destination - another trip to the beach for more R&R - and we didn't get lost!
Day 19: Santa Maria di Leuca
With our new rental car, and a GPS to direct us, Tas and I drove along the coast to Santa Maria di Leuca, the southernmost point of the"heel", and were met with magnificent views.
Santa Maria di Leuca and the surrounding area is home to many caves (grottos), cliffs, and rugged landscape. The lighthouse sits overlooking the area where the Adriatic and the Ionian Sea merge.
Day 20:
Touring around the countryside today, we visited Ugento, Racale, Torre Suda and Gallipole.
In Gallipole we visited the Castle that sits in the ancient part of the city at the most eastern end of the Island. Having undergone renovations in the past few years, we were fortunate to be part of the many visitors to view this historical monument, and the emotionally moving exhibition by Michelangelo Pistoletto.
Day 21:
Before beginning our trip, my mother corresponded and obtained basic information about our relatives through her cousin, so I had the address of the house my Grandfather grew up in, and whose niece still occupied. As an embarrassment to Tas, I asked in my non-existing Italian where to find this house, searched the town, knocked on the door, and was turned away. Who can blame her? I would have done the same if two strangers had shown up at my house, jabbering away. However, after connecting with her sister, we were brought back to this house to visit, and I sat feeling that uncanny emotion again, experiencing a connection to these strangers who were family. Sharing stories of life growing up, the two sisters enlightened us to the life my Grandfather lived, before emigrating to Canada with two of his brothers.
Day 22:
Driving through Italy is like driving through a history book. Today, we drove through the countryside to Otranto, a beautiful city sitting on the Adriatic coast. We lounged in the old section of the city, where people swam at the beach with an ancient castle and cathedral as a backdrop.
Day 23:
Some days you just need to get caught up on the little things that take time and keep one busy. So, we browsed through photos, prepared for our upcoming departure, corresponded with family and friends, etc. It was a quiet day, but we did find ourselves at the beach again...
...and eating!
Day 24:
More sight-seeing and meandering with the rental car today. The east coast drive was majestic! Passing a sign for a grotto, we spontaneously turned around, walked down the quiet path to the sea and explored. We knew we were in the right area when we saw a head poking out from the rocks like a groundhog, and then quickly back in.
Day 25:
On our last full day we returned to the place that provided us with solace and sunshine - the deserted beach.
Salento Tourist Website: https://www.viaggiareinpuglia.it/ter/PE11/en/Salento
Tips:
1. You need to rent a car, unless you are planning on staying at your hotel for the whole duration.
2. Learn as much Italian as you can to help you communicate.
3. Try to visit in the off season, as the summers are when Italians come here for their holidays.
4. Use a guide book or visit the local tourist office to find out what to do in these areas. If money is an issue, the library usually carries guidebooks.
Related Blogs:
Viva L'Italia! Part Three: South Eastern Italy
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