Skating the Rideau Canal, which is the world's largest and second longest natural outdoor skating rink, is a Canadian classic adventure. It was a desired destination for a long time, but I was always nervous about going. I can recall listening to my friend Storm's advice on the 'how to' part of skating the Rideau. As I wasn't familiar with the city of Ottawa, I didn't know where to park, what to do with our boots, etc. Storm made it all sound so simple, helping to settle my rising anxiety. When little Tas and I finally attempted our first trip to Winterlude, Ottawa's winter carnival in February, I parked at the National Arts Centre, and then wisely followed Tas to the skateway, whose inner compass always works, whereas, mine seems to have been installed backwards. Read on for tips on skating the Rideau Canal in Ottawa, Canada.
After visiting the skateway several times over the years, I felt confident bringing our Covid bubble 'family' to share this unique Canadian winter experience.
After parking at the Rideau Center, we walked over to the historic ByWard Market, a gathering place where vendors, restaurants, museums, and other businesses offer their distinctive goods and services. Encompassing approximately 4 blocks in the downtown area, one could easily spend a day here shopping and dining.
Eating at BeaverTails was our first destination, fueling us for the skateway trek. My favorite beaver tail, a sweet, soft, whole-wheat pastry, is the maple syrup one, but the Killaloe Sunrise is a close second. Gage and I were both determined to skate the whole distance of the skateway, a 15.6 km length (7.8 km each way), beginning at the lock closest to Fairmont Chateau Laurier and ending at Carleton University, a goal of mine that I had yet to accomplish.
We were soon stopped and informed that hockey sticks are not allowed on the ice, (as well as, pucks, pets, bicycles and alcohol), so Gage had to carry his. It was around the 5 km mark when one of us abandoned our quest, and the rest thankfully agreed, except Gage - he didn't even look winded and could have kept going!
Once back where we started, we exited on the west side of the Rideau Canal and followed the leader, Michele, for a stroll along a picturesque path, that winds around the Fairmont, by the Bytown Museum, over the lock and through Major's Hill Park.
Tas and I couldn't resist buying macaroons when we walked by Quelque Chose Macarons and Coffee, as they reminded us of our trip to Paris, while Michele and Gage went to McDonalds. Later we laughed when Michele told us about the homeless man who jumped out of nowhere and scared her.
Second adventure:
A few weeks later, Tas and I returned for another attempt at skating the whole distance of the canal. Staying at the Fairmont is never within my budget, but, due to the pandemic, prices were affordable so we took advantage of this rare opportunity when businesses were allowed to open. I have to admit, it was very nice to be greeted at the front of the hotel by the valet, who went out of his way to secure a parking spot, and inform the restaurant that we were late for our reservations.
(Afternoon Tea photos credit: Tas)
The Fairmont's Afternoon Tea at Zoe's is worth experiencing. We felt spoiled with English scones, dainty sandwiches and a selection of desserts, accompanying a pot of your choice of tea.
Later we walked over to the Rideau Center to do a little shopping. It was strange to follow the arrows on the ground and sanitize our hands upon entering each store.
That evening we followed Michele's suggestion to dine at Mamma Grazzis, an authentic Italian restaurant located close to the Fairmont.
After leaving, we had our own personal encounter with a homeless woman who asked us for our leftovers. We complied, offering her the choice between mine or Tas's, informing her they were both delicious. She chose mine.
Today was the day! Determined to skate the whole skateway and back again, Tas and I left our hotel in the morning, after securing a late check out. With a clear, sunny sky, a positive attitude and a refreshing sleep there was nothing stopping us. I posed for my 'proof' photo at the 0 km mark and off we went. We skated leisurely for a couple of kilometers before Tas asked, "Do you think we will have time to shop before we leave?" Knowing that was cue for, 'I don't really want to skate the whole length of this skateway and back', I suggested that Tas do what she wanted to do, and I do what I wanted to do. She complied and turned around. I kept going. If you want to have bragging rights of completing the whole distance and back, you need to include skating the lengths at Patterson Creek and Dow's Lake.
By the time I arrived at Carleton University, the 7.8 km mark, I was tired, but elated. I really wanted to take a selfie but didn't want to embarrass myself in front of the group of students milling about. Instead, I just took a quick photo and skated around the mark. Taking a deep breath, feeling deeply satisfied, I began my return journey, when I noticed an older man sitting off to the side on the bank with an unusual child-sized antique sled sitting beside him. It looked cozy and comfortable with a bright red cushion, and I wondered what the man would be using it for, when... SPLAT - I took a nosedive across the ice, not just a little spill, but a full body crash onto the surface. Laying face down, with arms and legs outstretched like a snow angel, I moaned, partly out of humiliation, knowing I was the day's entertainment. Slowly, I looked over at the old man, who was watching me closely. "You're not the first one to trip over that big crack in the ice," he informed me. 'Hmm, thanks for the heads-up,' was my first thought, but I bit my tongue. With a throbbing knee and dark red face, I soldiered on. Halfway back on my return my arms started aching, my neck throbbed, my toes tingled and my dry mouth complained of drought, but I slowly and steadily pushed forward. Puffing and chanting 'I think I can, I think I can,' like the little engine, I eventually reached the 0 km mark, and reveled in the satisfaction of having finally reached my goal!
Fun Facts:
The Rideau Canal Skateway used to be the world's largest and longest until the winter of 2008, when the people at Winnipeg, Manitoba decided to make theirs longer
People that worked for the city of Ottawa planned to pave over the canal to make an expressway - those people needed to buy skates!
In 2005 the skateway was added to the Guinness Book of World Records for being the largest ice rink in the world!
It is FREE to enjoy and open 24 hours, although sometimes it is closed at night so the surface can be cleaned.
At 90 days, the skateway's longest season was in 1971-72. The shortest was in 2015-16 (the year I went during a freezing rain storm).
Information on skating the Rideau Canal in Ottawa, Canada:
Skate Rentals: https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/skateway-rentals
Located at 3 locations:
Rideau, 2. Fifth, 3. Dows (rates are slightly cheaper here)
Three main areas:
Rideau Center: Close to ByWard Market and the beginning of the skateway, on the east side of the canal
National Arts Center: Close to the beginning of the skateway and Mackenzie King Bridge, on the west side of the canal
Dows Lake: Located next to Dows Lake at the 6 km mark.
Free Parking: World Exchange Plaza (weekends only) and Norman and Booth (weeknights and weekends)
Interactive Map showing ice conditions, places to park (paid and free), universal accessible entrances, stairs, and O-Train stations on the National Capital Commission website: https://ncc-ccn.maps.arcgis.com/apps/View/index.html?appid=795623808c5c49388aa7dc5f94890a40
Helpful Websites:
Ottawa tourism - https://ottawatourism.ca/en
National Capital Commission: Rideau Canal Skateway (all the details of information and services, including current, daily ice conditions) - https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rideau-canal-skateway
Government of Canada Travel and Tourism - https://travel.gc.ca/
Byward Market - http://byward-market.com/en/about-us/
Tips:
For up-to-date skateway conditions, visit the Rideau Canal Skateway website, before arriving (I once visited during a freezing rain storm and the skateway was closed, disappointing all of us)
Bring a backpack to carry your boots instead of leaving them at the warming stations
Keep a water bottle in your backpack
Unless you want to partake in the other activities during Winterlude, consider visiting the skateway another time. When Tas and I visited during Winterlude, it was packed with people. Long line ups for the washroom dampened our spirits, but the worst part was when Tas opened the door to exit the outdoor stall we shared, while I sat on the throne, shocked, and stared open-mouthed at the hundreds of onlookers. (Good times!)
Kommentare